*MZ Toutiao (美妆头条) · 2026-10-13 · Policy / Filing* **原文：** 520+新原料之后，监管终于问：你这个“新”是真的吗？ After five years of explosive growth — six new cosmetic ingredients filed in 2021, 151 this year, 527 cumulative, more than 85% domestic — China's regulator is asking whether all that novelty is real. On 8 October the National Institutes for Food and Drug Control released draft guidance defining what counts as a “new” cosmetic ingredient, open for comment until 25 October. The sting is in the statistics: only about 190 of the 527 filed ingredients — roughly 36.5% — ever entered the post-market safety-monitoring period, which in practice means the rest were never used in any finished product. Industry calls them “filed-for-the-file” ingredients: minor process tweaks registered as new, then worn as marketing badges. The draft sets three yardsticks — substance basis, intended use, safety risk. Changing a solvent, extraction process or fermentation strain does not make an ingredient new; isolating a single compound at 90%-plus dry purity does. Switching an old ingredient to one of five special functions (sunscreen, whitening, hair dye among them) requires full registration, and EGF, hormone or wound-

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